MAIN POND WITH VIEWING BRIDGE As the pond progresses getting out to relocate soil or turf can be a problem so a convenient slope and slab are useful strategies. I personally found that sheep seem largely indifferent and unwilling to help so I would recommend getting help from friends and family. In my case however I didn't find many of the latter wanted to help me dig a hole. With Dorothy’s help however (she was very emotionally supportive) I persevered.
The tools used are key to ensuring you can efficiently move several tonnes of earth. A spade for slicing in small manageable chunks EG squarish pieces and a shovel for putting onto the barrow before strategic placement. The turf at the back to covers the final layer and loose soil to create your water catchment. The butyl rubber membrane measured 10 metres by 7. The pond footprint is 7m by 4m. The overlap on all sides will slope downwards to naturally catch rainwater in the pond. Below you can see rocks placed on top of the membrane at the edge of the pond. The slope is made from the surplus soil creating a crater effect and the turf repositioned on the membrane edge at the top of the slope. You can see the grass flourishing from the turf liberated while digging at the top of the slope below. A bowl effect is created with plenty of hidey holes for wildlife which will naturally support vegetation and hopefully provide a variety of micro niches.
The perimeter of the pool will serve a broader range of wildlife the more variable it is. I used logs adjacent to the rocks and slabs placed irregularly so as to provide spaces and protection for amphibians. The bridges purpose I hope is clear. This was constructed from floor joists and decking with lots of waxy none toxic preservative. I used plastic plants pots to provide rooting for a variety of pond plants particulary important to dragonfly larvae.
MAIN POND WITH VIEWING BRIDGE From this angle you can see the various zones providing niches for a variety of wildlife. At the far end you can see a first attempt at a duck deterrent who reeked havoc with my early water plants. After driving me quackers for weeks I came up with the idea of using old CD disks tied loosely to a broken scythe handle. The wind and sun providing an intermittent bright sparkling effect. I had some success but eventually needed to use nets strategically over newly positioned plants.
Different creatures will reduce algae and blanketweed once a pond is established. However as I found new ponds without a range of wildlife can have high levels. This quickly covers the water’s surface, especially in the summer and can result in algal blooms. These can smell bad, block out the sun and limit photosynthesis, an essential process to oxygenate the water. Also known as eutrophication the release of toxins in some cases can kill off a lot of the creatures you are trying to encourage. It is just starting to form at the bottom of the image below.
MAIN POND WITH VIEWING BRIDGE I have found a rake the most effective way to manage blanket weed. By carefully skimming the surface of the pond (being very careful of the membrane) the algae gets stuck to the rake prongs and can be placed at the side of the pool for a few days so small invertebrates can escape back into the pond.